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Diamond Skulls – Lost Regiment 436

Lore / Backstory

The entire regiment felt the pull moments before the planet fell. At the exact moment that Cadia was destroyed by Abaddon's Blackstone Fortress, the 436th was violently ripped into the eye of terror along with the entire planet.

Believed to have been instantly killed, lost to the warp, the Diamond Skulls were listed as KIA by the Administratum.

For years the soldiers of the 436th traveled via the warp recruiting other lost regiments of the Astra Militarum. Krieg, and Catachan surviors principal among those saved.

Reemerging from the warp onto New Cadia 10 years after the fall looking as if no time had passed, and their numbers bolstered five-fold.

Officially the Imperium denies any and all existence of the Lost Regiment, secretly using them as a “warp-resistant” special force.

Ideation

I love the Astra Militarum as a concept it’s such a interesting idea. As a monolith they are fascist, racist, xenophobic, and every other bad thing humans are capable of. Yet, they represent normality in a universe of super beings. They are a beacon hope that shouldn't exist in an existence that knows only violence. There is a through-line of interesting humans overcoming insurmountable odds.

I wanted to paint them with bone colored armor sort of like the Deathwing, and originally I was going to go all blue with the cloth—cause blue and bone is a great combo—but then the Payne’s Grey was being an asshole, so I mixed a bit of green in and was like oh I like this better. I’d already done all the pants on the Command squad at this point, so I just said OK command gets blue pants everything else gets blue-green cloth! Which is why the Sergeants in the Shock Troops have blue pants.

Examples Permalink

Recipe cards Permalink

The following is a rundown of how I painted these models for myself, it’s descriptive not prescriptive, and I strongly encourage experimentation and exploration that may lead you somewhere close or better.

I've documented the exact colors and brands I used, but I promise you just need to find something close in your collection, no need to buy new paints.

As for brushes, you can learn more about what I use on the Toolbox page.

Brands Key & Paints List:

Blue Cloth Permalink

This is used on command pants, all undershirts and face wraps.

Base:
PA Payne’s Grey
Layer:
1:1 PA Payne's Grey : PA Dark Grey Blue
Highlight:
PA Dark Grey Blue
Highlight:
1:1 PA Payne's Grey : PA Grey Blue

Blue Casings Permalink

Anything that would be painted blue metal.

Base:
PA Payne’s Grey
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
1:1 PA Payne's Grey : PA Dark Grey Blue
Highlight:
PA Dark Grey Blue

Green Cloth Permalink

All other cloth, jackets, infantry pants, etc...

Base:
1:1 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Dark Camo Green
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
1:1 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Dark Camo Green
Layer:
1:2 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Dark Camo Green
Layer:
1:3 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Dark Camo Green

You don't need all three of these layers for everything, but some areas need more depth which is why there are multiple steps.

Layer:
1:4 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Camo Green
Highlight:
PA Camo Green

Green Casings Permalink

Anything that would be painted green metal.

Base:
1:1 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Dark Camo Green
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
1:3 PA Payne’s Grey : PA Dark Camo Green
Highlight:
PA Camo Green

Wine Cloth Permalink

Scarves and cuffs.

Base:
PA Dark Burgundy
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
1:1 PA Dark Burgundy : PA Burgundy
Highlight:
PA Burgundy
Highlight:
2:1 PA Burgundy : PA Beige Red
Glaze:
PA Burgundy

Armor Plate Permalink

Also used for weapon casings.

Base:
PA Light Umber
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
2:1 PA Light Umber : PA Bone
Highlight:
PA Bone

Can also be used for scratches and dings.

Glaze:
PA Light Umber

Bottom half of all surfaces, creates a dirty look.

Black Leather Permalink

Really just for boots, but you could use it in place of brown leather as well if you like it better.

Base:
AK Rubber Black
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
AK Rubber Black
Highlight:
1:1 AK Rubber Black : PA Dark Grey Blue

Topmost flat areas.

Highlight:
PA Dark Grey Blue

Edges around toes and top of heel.

Highlight:
1:1 PA Dark Grey Blue : PA Grey Blue

Sparingly front-most and top-most edges.

Glaze:
2:1 Lahmian Medium : PA Transparent Black
Highlight:
PA Dark Grey Blue

Reinforce edges as needed.

Brown Leather Permalink

Straps, holsters, etc...

Base:
PA Black Brown
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
1:1 PA Black Brown : PA Dark Green Brown

Really scratchy and spotty.

Highlight:
PA Dark Green Brown

Edges and scratches.

Highlight:
PA Caramel Brown

Bouncy edges, and more scratches.

Grenades Permalink

Base:
PA Camo Green
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
PA Dark Yellow Green
Highlight:
PA Yellow Green

Bed Rolls Permalink

Base:
PA Burnt Red
Wash:
Marine Juice
Layer:
1:1 PA Burnt Red : PA Bold Pyrrole Red
Highlight:
PA Orange Red
Highlight:
PA Red Orange

Metal Decorations Permalink

Base:
1:4 PA Dark Silver : VMC Gunmetal
Wash:
Marine Juice
Highlight:
1:3 PA Silver : VMC Gunmetal

Metal Weapons Permalink

Base:
1:4 PA Magnesium : VMC Gunmetal
Wash:
Marine Juice
Highlight:
1:3 PA Silver : VMC Gunmetal

Bases Permalink

Texture:
PA Extra-Fine Concrete
Texture:
PA Coarse Grey

Sparingly, make piles and blend them in.

Layer:
1:1 PA Black Brown : PA Brown Grey
Wash:
PA Black Wash
Drybrush:
PA Brown Grey
Drybrush:
1:1 PA Brown Grey : PA Red Grey
Drybrush:
PA Red Grey
Wash:
PA Warm Brown

Sparingly just around texture piles and detritus.

Tufts:
GG Tiny Dark Moss
Rim:
1:1 PA Black Brown : PA Brown Grey

Postmortem

I really like the overall color scheme I came up with here, but I do think I would do it slightly differently in terms of overall labor. I made some of the steps too intense for very little table gain.

Looks great under a microscope or in close up photos, but it's a huge time investment for very little gaming payoff.